With Christophe Decarnin out and Olivier Rousteing now in, Balmain‘s organic evolution continues. Resort 2012 is the first showing under officially new direction, and Rousteing is taking the house’s renowned glam-rock style in a much more mellow, though equally hot direction.

Au revior, Paris and what’s up, SoCal! The hard-edged city slickness of seasons past has been traded in for a very American mélange of Navajo prints, Aztec-influenced hints, Californian ease, and viva Las Vegas gold fringe – all expressed only the way the French could, of course. Biker belts set off low-slung pants, a looser, laid-back version of past hip-huggers, and pastel sweaters give a nod to chilly desert nights. Naturally, the standouts are the gawk-inducing mini-dresses. Strong shoulders and gold beading fit for the stage somehow harmoniously compliment the exotic-meets-Americana prints.

I have a feeling Balmain’s reign will breeze on from here.