After a year of colorblocking, I am ready for the graphic starkness of Céline‘s latest collection. My love of color hasn’t faltered, but witnessing the kaleidoscope of color abuse on the streets has begun to make me queasy. Bring on the high-shine, paired-down, buttoned-up guile of Phoebe Philo’s woman. Hers is a refined, thoughtful femininity, in which showing off your essence doesn’t necessarily involve flaunting your physique. This is a woman who is powerful, in the most potent kind of way – by thoughtfully manipulating it, not bragging to the world.

These knit-bone turtlenecks, extra-tapered pants, panels of leather (geometric, not motorcycle-inspired), asymmetric two-tone dresses compile looks that are intellectual without being dry, stuffy, or even untouchably avant-garde. There are sharp angles and

mannish touches in the high-collared shirts, emphasis on ankle socks, and pointed dress shoes. A pair of radzimir pants boast dashes of high-gloss color, somehow too elegant to be called “blocking.” Above all else, it’s the leopard-print gentleman’s coat with skinny black label that is the must-have to build my fall wardrobe around.