With lots of black and a yellow taxicab as the backdrop, the message was loud and clear. Citing the Beat Generation as the inspiration, Donna stayed true to her city. “These are clothes for a true New Yorker.”

And the true New Yorker is, of course, a confident girl, swathed in lambskin, satin and silk-georgette – now sexed and amped up! The first look – a shearling aviator coat with a peplum skirt – was my favorite, and it set the tone. With “Poetic Rebellion” cited as the theme, it is an intelligent, even mix of both poetry – soft, rounded shoulders and almost-sweet peplums – and rebellion – “Matrix”-inspired leather coats and wide corset-belts offering tough structure. Suits are bonded and tailored with leather seams and bands, and with the kick of a bright-red Mary Jane every so often, DKNY shows us this dark soul has loads of energy. Even better, it reminded us that, even after all these years, it is THE New York brand.