Miuccia Prada’s nearly identical battalion of models – each sporting lash-line-to-brow eye shadow and pin-straight, extension-enhanced hair, slicked back for a feeling of digital-world severity – said it all. For this collection, she was zeroing into a narrow focus and sticking with it. But that’s not to say Fall 2012 doesn’t have a feeling of broad exploration and variety. This time, Miuccia says it’s about “the pleasure of fashion,” not “the theory.” Fine by me! I’m all for pleasure.

And who can’t find some in the chunky-jewel embellishments and magnified embroidery that harks back to earlier days of Prada? Thick black wool got the royal treatment, enhanced to the nines; then the show moved swiftly along into endless splashes of color. Geometric, Op-Art patterns (enough to make your head spin) brought new meaning to the term “menswear-inspired,” which many of the double-breasted jackets and pleat-front trouser pants, cropped and cuffed right above the ankle, were. Pajama-esque silhouettes softened things up and offered a sense of flow.

Kooky layers of long tunic-like vests and rounded, mid-calf-length skirts were placed over similar yet contrasting-print pants, for a feeling of mix-and-match fun. It all reminds me of the Prada we all loved in the nineties: irreverent, structured, strong, jovial, and always intellectual. Let’s not forget: Prada can even make the skant look good!