Narciso Rodriguez has always been a true modernist at heart (and most often, a minimalist, as well), and with the best collection he has produced in years, he is not only current, he is a force of the future. “Hard” and “soft” are words that get thrown around frequently when talking about clothes, but Narciso doesn’t need to mix leather and lace (as much as I adore that combination!) to make the statement. He has transcended it with his searing vision of strong versus softly curved shoulders, tops expertly sliced down to the bellybutton against swingy menswear-inspired blazers and trousers, and spaghetti-strapped slipdresses that, while they will turn countless heads, won’t make you look like you’re crying out for attention.
Set in another array of gorgeous, addictive-to-the-eye colors, like teal, orange, fuchsia, aqua, along with equally enjoyable black and white, the collection is risqué in a great way. We know Narciso has always enjoyed himself some old-fashioned geometry, not to mention a wispy slipdress; now he has redefined the tired notion of lingerie-as-outerwear. And the super-sheer, extra-low backs to his dresses? Pure sensuality! Laminated wood on the pailette embroidery made for a terrific 3D effect on a teal-and-green dress, and patterned embellishments amounted to a wickedly creative injection of botany on the dressed-up T-shirts. For all the potency, the corporal flow never dissipated. Narciso is back, and he’s better than ever.