For all the stripes and florals, Spring ’13 may very well be the season of the collage (3.1 Phillip Lim, for one, is also all about it). Lazaro and Jack have always been mix masters, from Asian warriors to mountain-tackling athletics to Googie architecture, Proenza Schouler can stir and shake up fabrics and skins, concepts and references with a rare combo of smarts and spirit. This time, the collection is about the literal mix “of technology and craft,” as McCollough said. Python, eelskin, and perforated leather; crochet and patchwork gone modern; and photo-prints – actually found on Tumblr! – sliced into strips and then sewed back together to make them into something brand-new all came together for the party.
Black Lycra chokers paid homage to the early-‘90s, but they feel chic and timely right now, especially with a smoothly zipper-up leather dress. Tomboyish vests and anti-revealing skirts brought a hard flavor, especially with those cutout, knee-high boots. Let’s face it: a girl looks hard as nails, not to mention hot as hell, when she’s decked in skins, no matter what the silhouette.With enough exotics to give your best bags a run for the money (I can’t even believe I’m saying this!), there was also no shortage of femininity. Printed chiffon dresses, loads of duchess satin (and conversely, tons of grommets, too) are shockingly gorgeous, packing a “how did they do that?” quality I can’t get enough of.
Bringing on kooky shapes and cutouts worthy of a modern-art museum and Madagascar-hand-stitched crochet of the highest level of workmanship, this collection is visually fascinating enough to bring you to the point of obsession. You just want to look and look…and look. Collage might be the word of the day, but Proenza Schouler and their masterful mixes are here to stay.