Vera Wang has turned a corner. Gone are the languid, almost complicated ensembles of her recent collections. Even further gone are the visions of modern-princess wedding dresses. With Fall ’13, she has fully come into her own: it’s directional, graphic, shapely, and moody.

Gothic lips and pale skin on each and every model set the tone: it’s time to get serious. High-volume shoulders commanded the first portion of the show, in every form you can imagine. It’s pretty obvious Vera was seeking strength for the latest incarnation of her woman. The exaggeration came courtesy of capes in multiple variations: fur capes, gauzy floral capes, caped shoulders so you can still use your arms! (Because what good is superhero-worthy empowerment if you can’t get anything done?)

Just when there was enough hard, shapely black to last you from September through March, there was a transition into a lighter, more feminine mood. Giant rose patterns come with flashes of bright metallic, and billowing origami shapes get cinched with belts for a dose of definition. If you’re not feeling like bulking up your upper body, so to speak, opt for the lower portion: Vera unleashed a cornucopia of peplums and bubble skirts.

No longer the pretty-dressmaker, this collection is dark and full of attitude. This big collection (nearly 50 looks in total) is very cohesive, but perhaps it could still have been tightened up. Literally and figuratively. With the spotlight on loose, undone shapes, it’s definitely all about big, relaxed volume this season.