Recently in Haute Couture Category

Left: Christian Lacroix Haute Couture  Right: Gucci RTW

Gucci is said to be launching their Haute Couture collection but will not be showing in Paris at the Couture shows and will instead offer the line by appointment only.  I wonder if they've even been accepted by Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris yet. In France, the term haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris and only the members accepted each year are allowed to call themselves as such. To earn the right to call itself an Haute couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way, members of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture must follow these rules:
* Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.
* Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
* Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.

I am no expert (I only own two pieces of vintage haute couture-- a 1971 Yves Saint Laurent and a 1968 Christian Dior) but I think they should add, PROPER TRAINING IN THE ART OF HAUTE COUTURE.  I have nothing against Gucci, I love Frida Giannini but killer boots and leather jackets DO NOT HAUTE COUTURE MAKE. There, I've said and I feel so much better. What does this have to do with Lacroix?  Nothing really, I just wanted to point out what a travesty it is that a couturier of his caliber lacks the funding to continue his vision and talent.

Chanel Haute Couture on display at Flagship boutique in Ginza

WWD reported this morning that an influx of younger clients from fast-developing Asian markets is helping to lift Europe's few remaining couture houses. I was not surprised to read that Haute Couture houses are looking at Asia, specifically young Asian women in their 30s-40s, to save the fast shrinking industry. When I was home in Taiwan, many of my friends discussed collecting Haute Couture with me (peppered with discussions of crocodile birkins!).

What's interesting of note is that Chinese consumers, long thought to be interested in accessories only, are quickly migrating to the height of luxury-- which includes, of course, haute couture. According to Sidney Toledano, president and chief executive officer of Christian Dior via an interview with WWD: "young Asian women want the global image of the brand: They look at the DNA, the heritage and the know-how. Couture is a vehicle to transmit the savoir faire and the codes of the house," he further elaborates: "One of the reasons for our success in China is our real, genuine story -- thanks to the haute couture."

The Haute Couture shows start today-- am looking forward to see who will rule the front rows, the old guard? Or the nouveau?

Via WWD

Beyond the superficial color trends of Sunday night's Golden Globe Awards--shiny metallics and blush tones anyone?--one theme reigned supreme: texture. The lovely ladies who walked the soggy red carpet embraced one of two options--beads and lace (Penelope Cruz's Armani Privé, Olivia Wilde's Gucci, Jennifer Garner's Atelier Versace) or oh-so-feminine fabric manipulation (Maggie Gyllenhaal's RM by Roland Mouret, Diane Kruger's Lacroix Couture, Drew Barrymore's Atelier Versace, Marion Cotillard's Dior, Kate Hudson's Marchesa).

Was it just me or did in-your-face jewelry of years past not rear its ostentatious head this time around? Don't get me wrong; I love a Cartier, Bulgari, or Van Cleef & Arpels bauble as much as the next Couture Snob, but it was refreshing to see them whittled down this season as elegant complements not vying for attention with the dress (perhaps the unfortunate Haiti earthquake had one positive aftershock). I think two of the evening's best examples of texture and fabric manipulation came courtesy of Carey Mulligan and Chloë Sevigny--both by designers that look like they're making positive comebacks after much designer shuffling. The former's elegant Nina Ricci gown, designed by Peter Copping, featured what appeared to be a crater-cum-floral motif, which perfectly suited the actresses' sweetheart persona while the latter's Valentino gown, masterminded by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, fill both the dramatic and red carpet quotients to a tee.

I am SO OVER the entire fashion industry fawning over Christophe Decarnin of Balmain. Okay, so the gorgeous draped dresses with rock and roll hardware was very cool but it cost as much as a Mercedes! Let's get real here. I am reading the Golden Age of Couture right now and the beautiful couture gowns by Balmain in the 50's are tear inducing. The craft of couture has seriously declined in modern years yet the costs continue to escalate-- I don't get it!

My friend Chloe picked up a Balmain jacket from the FW 09 collection at a cool $22,000 and multiple t-shirts at $8,000 (yes, t-shirts, not even real blouses!?!?). She tried to convince me that the craftsmanship of Balmain bedazzle is much superior to that of my 8 year old goddaughter's but I beg to differ. You have no idea what an 8 year old with a bedazzle gun can achieve! But I'll have to take her word for it because I do not plan on finding out for myself. US Weekly Fashion Director Sasha Charnin Morrison agrees with me and eschewed the Balmain studded sandals for a pair at H & M for $179.

As for this belt (at a whooping $1,530)-- you can have the Hermes Collier de chien belt for less-- a way better look and investment. For me, it's also much wiser to invest in vintage Haute Couture-- I get mine from Cameron Silver of Decades. He knows my measurements and ships me items on approval overnight.   And seriously, nothing matches vintage Haute Couture from the golden age!

What do you think of Balmain by Christophe Decarnin? High Fashion or Craft project? Balmain at Net-a-porter.com

Pre-order your copy of the highly anticipated book from Claire Wilcox today!   The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957 will delve into the long lost era when haute couture reigned and getting dressed was an art form. I am fascinated by the fantasy of the couture world; I dipped my toe into it last year when I was fitted for Armani Prive and am waiting to take a full dive into its fabulousness when I finally order my first piece as a 40th birthday present to myself.

This beautifully designed book reveals the skill and craftsmanship of haute couture along with the inner workings of the exclusive design houses, and the inspiration behind some of the most famous styles of all time.  Styles that continue to inspire designers today. 

I love the drama of this beautiful Dior haute couture dress but it is more wedding cake top appropriate than red carpet appropriate, in a color Parker describes as "barely mint". And, uh, Haute Couture is custom made to fit, which the top part obviously doesn't. I am thinking it was one of Carrie's wedding dress rejects. What about you? Snob or Slob?

Timeless White and a touch of Classic Black are the defining ingredients of Chanel's
Spring-Summer 2009 Haute Couture collection. Haute Couture shows are grand and the decor often set the stage for the dramatic clothes. Yesterday, columns and round tables were set beneath the Cambon-Capucines pavilions glass roof which were adorned with white paper roses, daisies, petals and leaves like ephemeral sculptures arising from a gigantic pop-up book.  The combination of delicate fabrics and minimalist design give this collection its pure refinement and lightness. The essence of the clothing is Karl Lagerfeld's idea of a 2009 allure, which he calls, in his words, "the new modesty." (at 6 figures a pop)

From the cuts perfected down to the very millimeter, to the selection of unique embroideries, nothing is overlooked. The silhouette is light -both graphic and flexible - and the embroideries and details are suggested rather than exposed. The tweed, taffeta, chiffon, organza and guipure define a new sense of seduction. Flowers and botanical forms are also found delicately incorporated into dresses and into hair pieces.  I know what the SATC girls will be wearing on their heads come summer when they start filming the sequel!

Haute Couture is a world which I am fascinated by. I got a small taste of it last year when I was fitted for Armani Prive and the experience was amazing. I look forward to delving deeper into this world and attending the Haute Couture shows in Paris for the Fall 2009 shows. 

All images courtesy of Chanel

Tarina Tarantino is a name that has become synonymous among LA's elite fashionistas with one word... "sparkle"! Her products are whimsical and unique, and sometimes integrate a touch of the macabre. The designs of Tarina Tarantino are unmistakably girly, and while I am not one to leave my house dressed in pink and covered in sparkles, I found several items that felt very satisfyingly feminine. This Crystal Pave Mini Top Hat from her "Dollskin Collection" is my absolute favorite piece!! This hat is the most unquestionably fabulous accessory for the Holidays, and the only thing I would want to grace my coif come whatever New Years Eve party I choose to grace with my presence ;). Each Mini Top Hat is handmade and completely covered in Swarovski crystals (in the color of your choice, of course), and graced by a delicate frothy bouquet of tulle flowers set to one side. But you better make your purchase soon, because each piece is 'couture' you can expect a 3-4 week wait, which means you should order now if you want to wear this lovely item during the holidays!

Tarina with Nigel Barker and Ms J from Americas Next Top Model, and seated in her LA loft/shop.

Another reason for me to long for the City of Lights,,, at the risk of being banned from the New York shows forever, I have to say Paris Couture Week makes NY Fashion Week look like amateur hour. Hand engraved "Save the Date" invitations started showing up in my mail box from Armani Prive, Givenchy and others a month before the shows (whereas most of my NY fashion show invites would arrive a day before or worse, a week late). I was invited to the Christian Lacroix Couture show at the Centre Pompidou in Paris this week but could not attend as I am already back home in the States tending to personal business. I was also invited to lunch at the Lacroix atelier with Monsieur Lacroix himself (hosted by the fabulous Becca Cason Thrash) but I had another engagement and arrived in Paris the day after the event. Needless to say, I really have to plan my trips better next season. So I am relegated to drooling over the gorgeous creations of his latest Couture collection while sitting at my desk, but at least I was promised a viewing in person when the collection travels stateside. The private world of Haute Couture has fascinated me for years and now with the guidance of a few of my collector friends, I may be ready to take a swan dive into its gilded world. Did you know that seasoned Couture clients are never late to a show? Mostly because they want first dibs at the clothes. Unlike ready-to-wear, where mass production rules, once an item is spoken for in Couture-- you can rest assured that no one will be able to buy it again, ever. As for Couture bags, it is the ultimate indulgence for bag snobs! (jump for more pictures!)